Vogue Pattern

SEWING: Choosing pattern size for jacket please help?
I have a vintage sewing pattern from VOGUE for a jacket. It is a size 12 with measurements:
bust 32
waist 25
hip34
However my measurements are
bust 34
waist 25.5
hip 33.5
Should I stick with Size 12 or should I alter the pattern to a size 14? Size 14 measurements are :
Bust 34
Waist 26
Hip 36
I think the hips will be too big if I go with a size 14. I also dont know how to make the pattern bigger! Someone with experience please help! Thanks!
this is the pattern: http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Vogue_1676
I have the sewing instructions and I am a bit smaller than a B cup
This is not a fitted jacket and I am sure a size 12 will fit you. However, my experience with Vogue patterns is that they run small.
But, for your own piece of mind, take the pattern pieces and iron them to flatten them out. With a soft tape measure, measure the pattern pieces, not including any seam allowances. Measure the bust line, front, sides and back, add them together. This measurement should be big enough to fit you with a little room to spare. If that is the case, proceed without any alterations.
If not, you will have to adjust the pattern at the bust line only. Luckily you have four seams that I can see along the bust line — the left and right side seams (underarm seams) and the front side seams (princess seams) that run through the pocket flap. These seams, along with any seams in the back can be sewn with a smaller seam allowance AFTER the 5/8ths allowance is achieved at the seams that intersect with the sleeve. Otherwise, the sleeve will not fit, understand? Just taper out the seam allowance just before and after the bust line and get back to 5/8ths well before the pocket and bottom hemline or the hemline interfacing will not match up. You can certainly eek out enough extra room so that the jacket will fit you in the bust. Also, if there is a back seam, do the same.
Remember, this alteration is a very minimal seam allowance adjustment where each small increment adds up. No drastic stitching within the allowance, just a tapering of the stitches will give you all the room you need. Press all seams open.
I hope this has been helpful
Vogue Pattern 1145.mp4
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